( Originally posted at http://www.530i.org/530i-Test.htm )
Last updated October 20, 2002 - recent updates in RED.
Disclaimer: The information in this FAQ is based on the experiences of BMW owners like you, BMW techs, and various other sources. It's as accurate as we can possibly make it, but we wouldn't do something foolish like provide any explicit or implicit warranty regarding the information or your use of it.
What's up with the V8 in my '93-'95 530i, 540i, 740i, or 840i?
Can you give me some additional background on this issue?
Why don't I just ask my dealer about this stuff? Don't the dealers know all about this?
What about BMWNA? Shouldn't I call the 800 number and talk to them?
I heard BMW fixed the sulfur problem by reprogramming the car's computer for 1995 models? Is this true?
Why didn't BMW know the nikasil alloy would be a problem in the US?
What exactly does the BMW warranty on the M60 V8 engines say?
What exactly did BMW tell original owners of the M60 V8 models?
How can I tell when the warranty expires on my car?
I don't live in the US, Puerto Rico, or Canada - what about me?!
What do I get if I qualify for a new short block?
Does the potential for sulfur damage depend on where I live?
If an engine hasn't failed by 30,000 miles, is it likely it won't fail at all?
How do I know if I need a new short block - what tests does BMW run on my engine?
How do I know BMW's M60 engine test accurately identifies cylinder wear?
When am I allowed to have the M60 engine test - any requirements?
Why all the hassle - if BMW reimburses for the work, why aren't dealers lining up to replace my block?
So why don't I just call my dealer and ask him to do a leakdown test for free?
Are there any other things I should consider having done to my car if a new short block is installed?
Are there any BMW dealers who have shown that they seem to understand this issue?
What percentage of US cars have their blocks replaced?
I'm considering purchasing a BMW with the M60 engine right now - any advice?
What would it cost me if I paid for my block replacement out of warranty?
What's the warranty on the new (alusil) short block?
Has anyone ever gotten a new block after their warranty expired? (Hint - the answer is YES!) *
Any other options? Can I do anything to slow (or speed?!) the affect of sulfur on my engine block?
What's up with the V8 in my '93-'95 530i, 540i, 740i, or 840i? <Back to top>
Sulfur in US gasolines interacts with the nickel in the Nikasil alloy BMW used in the V8 engines in the E34 530i and 540i, and in the 740i and 840i from '93 to '95. In some cases the cylinder walls in the engines can deteriorate to the point where the engine block requires replacement, which BMW covers under a limited warranty enhancement for these V8 engines.
Can you give me some additional background on this issue? <Back to top>
If you haven't already, go to Brett Anderson's web page (at Koala Motorsports ) to read detailed background information on the M60 V8 Nikasil block and it's related sulfur issues in the US. (M60 is BMW's name for the V8 engines in the E34 530i, 540i, and the 740i, and 840i from '93 to '95. The M60B30 is the 3 liter V8 in the 530i, and the M60B40 is the 4 liter in the 540i, 740i, and 840i). Again, see Brett's page for more on this. Both the M60B30 and M60B40 engines are covered under BMWs limited warranty enhancement for V8 engines. Here is some additional metallurgical background on the Nikasil and Alusil engine blocks for those of you who want to know more. .
Why don't I just ask my dealer about this stuff? Don't the dealers know all about this? <Back to top>
Hmmm . . . good question. Sadly, dealers seem bizarrely uninformed, misinformed, and underinformed about the whole M60 engine warranty and sulfur issues. The wide-ranging "stories" we've heard from dealers never cease to amaze us. One member of our group called three dealers in his area to inquire about the V8 sulfur issues, engine tests, and warranties. Their responses were, ah, interesting, to say the least. They were also representative of the range of responses reported by our members from dealers across the US since we established the E34 530i/540i mailing list. Here's what three dealers told him about the M60 test and the warranty.
What about BMWNA? Shouldn't I call the 800 number and talk to them? <Back to top>
You can, but the information from them may not be much better. Recently a 540i owner had heard (incorrectly) on a BMW mailing list that all 540i's made after 5/95 were manufactured with the newer, sulfur-proof alusil engine blocks. (In fact, the original blocks on all cars equipped with the M60 engines were made of Nikasil.) He called BMWNA to ask about the issue. Again, the information he had been given was incorrect, yet the representative he talked to at BMWNA confirmed it. So the "experts" at BMWNA may not be any more knowledgeable than your average dealer. Recently they've even been telling some individuals who have called them for help that they have to pay for the block test if they pass it.
I heard BMW fixed the sulfur problem by reprogramming the car's computer for some of the 1995 models? Is this true? <Back to top>
They did try, but it did not solve the problem. For engines in cars built on or after 3/95 (automatics) and 5/95 (five/six speeds) BMW tried to solve the problem by adjusting the engine control unit (ECU). They altered the programming so the engine ran hotter (up from 85 deg C to 95 deg C) to hopefully burn off the excess sulphur. In September of 1995 they also released a technical service bulletin (#1209944132) to apply this fix to cars made before 3/95. Unfortunately, this fix was not successful, and BMW eventually determined that the blocks would need to be replaced in some cases, depending on the amount of damage caused by the sulfur in US gasolines.
Why didn't BMW know the nikasil alloy would be a problem in the US? <Back to top>
Due in part to an interesting bit of trivia - BMW had used the same alloy in motorcyles sold in the US and had not experienced any problems. Read more about the connection of the M60 V8's to BMW motorcycles, and why BMW used Nikasil in the M60.
What exactly does the BMW warranty on the M60 V8 engines say? <Back to top>
Here is the exact text of the BMW V8 warranty enhancement statement. This 6 year, 100K engine warranty applies to any owner of a '93 - '95 530i, 540i, 740i or 840i in Continental USA and Puerto Rico, whether you bought the car new or used, from a dealer or from some guy who advertised in the local classifieds. The warranty seems to apply in Canada as well - a member of the 530i/540i mailing list from Canada received a new block from a Canadian BMW dealer.
What exactly did BMW tell original owners of the M60 V8 models? <Back to top>
BMWNA sent a letter to all owners of BMWs that used the M60 engines (530i, 540i, 740i, and 840i) noting the sulfur issue and describing the extended warranty - an additional 2 years/50,000 miles on the engine, for a total of 6 years, 100,000 miles. Here's the full text of the letter.
How can I tell when the warranty expires on my car? <Back to top>
The warranty ends 6 years or 100K miles after your in-service date, whichever comes first. Note that your in-service date is not the same thing as your car's manufacture date. To reiterate, "The warranty begins on the date of first retail sale or the date the vehicle is first placed in service as a demonstrator or company vehicle, whichever is earlier." If you haven't already, you should immediately ask a dealer to confirm what your in-service date is by looking up your car's record via the VIN number.
I don't live in the US, Puerto Rico, or Canada - what about me?! <Back to top>
The Roundel (BMW Car Club of America monthly magazine) reported this about engines in the UK in 1998: "Hundreds of six-cylinder engines on new BMWs are failing in England, apparently the result of high sulfur in British gasolines and the nickel cylinder liners in BMW six-cylinder engines, according to a report in The Sunday Times of London. BMW is replacing the engines under warranty - more than 600 as of early 1998 - but has balked at paying for the replacement(s) if the car hasn't been serviced by a "registered agent" (BMW dealer) in the first year. . .In response to the troubles, BMW switched from nickel to steel cylinder liners earlier this year."
Simon Worby has put together a summary of the Nikasil situation in England.
What do I get if I qualify for a new short block? <Back to top>
If the block in a M60 V8 deteriorates enough before 6 years after in-service date or 100K miles, BMWNA will put in a new short block (including block, crank, pistons, gaskets, and plugs). The new short blocks are made of Alusil, which does not react with sulfur. The short block is replaced free (all parts and labor are paid for by BMWNA) under the V8 warranty. Here's a verbatim listing of the invoice from a block replacement completed under warranty for one of our members.
Does the potential for sulfur damage depend on where I live? <Back to top>
Probably, but not certainly. The cylinder deterioration is said to be caused by sulfur in US gasoline. The level of sulfur in gasoline varies by region - in California it is never over 80 PPM, and usually closer to the 30 PPM range. In the South and East of the US it can be as high as 1000 PPM. Block deterioriation can occur anywhere, however, so regardless of where the car is owned it has the potential to be affected by sulfur in gasolines. The table below summarizes information on sulfur levels in US gasolines. Mobil Oil Corp provided this data, we believe it is consistent with other major brands of gasoline.
Interestingly, recent developments in gasoline regulation are heading towards a lower limit for sulfur in gasolines sold in all states - the target is going to be 30 PPM. This is expected to be enacted sometime in late '99 or early '00. .
Sulfur Levels in US Gasolines (as of 3/99)
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Regardless of what others may tell you, nobody knows how exactly what combination of sulfur level, driving style, and other factors result in damage to an M60 engine block. Damage seems more likely if your primary gasoline has relatively high sulfur levels. The industry is very open about sharing this information - if you have questions about a favorite brand of gasoline sold in your region, simply contact the refiner and ask.
For those truly interested in sulfur levels in US gasoline, check out the article at this URL. You'll need Adobe Acrobat to view it. http://www.epa.gov/orcdizux/regs/ld-hwy/tier-2/colucci.pdf
Here's an interesting discussion regarding Amoco and BP "superpremium" fuels and their potential for retarding any block damage.
If an engine hasn't failed by 30,000 miles, is it likely it won't fail at all? <Back to top>
From my own personal experience (mine failed the test at 70,000) I'd first want to say "BS" to the idea that engines fail early or not at all.
However, 70K was just when I happened to have the test done. I've no idea if the damage was already done to my engine by 30K, since no one ever tested for it.
We have seen a lot of cars failing at high miles, but w/out any sort of documented status at earlier points it isn't easy to tell when the damage occurred. BMW isn't sharing any statistics, unfortunately, and the "wisdom" shared by BMW techs is hard for me to trust, given the range of information and understanding they seem to have (and mostly not have) about this issue.
Bottom line - having a high-mileage Nikasil engine that is in good shape doesn't tell you if it will or won't fail in the future. All you know is that it hasn't failed yet. However, it does seem intuitively likely that if an engine has lasted to 70K, 80K, or 90K miles that the block has been in the right environment (low sulfur gas) or had the right "birth" (good production run) and should stay solid in the future. But we just don't know for sure. We do know these cars can go "forever" on nikasil w/out problems:
"...I have a '94 530 with 178,000 miles, ...Manual trans. It idles smooth, lots of power, doesn't use a drop of oil and has the original Nikasil block. I bought it recently and am unaware of when or if the leakdown test has been done. The car spent the first 174,000 miles in the Dallas Texas area and now lives in the Minneapolis area. Judging by how the rest of the car looks & feels, it was babied and well taken care of, it honestly looks & drives like new. I looked at cars with 60k on them, in much worse shape. . . Chad"
How do I know if I need a new short block - what tests does BMW run on my engine? <Back to top>
BMW created the M60 V8 engine test to determine if an engine requires replacement due to sulfur damage. It is a three-part test that BMW believes identifies when an M60 engine requires replacement. The three parts of the test are:
1. Idle quality test
2 Pressure distribution test
3. Leakdown testTechnically, to get to the 3rd part (leakdown) you "must" fail either of the first two tests. We have, however, seen many cases when the dealer "cuts to the chase" and does the leakdown directly, or agrees to do the leakdown no matter the score on the first two tests. So your dealer may or may not require that your engine fails either of the first two tests before he does the leakdown test to determine if your block should be replaced. If any one cylinder has a score of 16% or greater on the leakdown test (which means a loss of 16% or more of the air pressure pumped into cylinder while piston is at TDC) then the engine has deteriorated sufficiently, and you get a new short block, free. Only the leakdown test confirms block replacement - the first two tests are used by BMW to determine if the dealer should spend the time doing the leakdown. Click here for an explanation of a leakdown test vs. a compression test.
The Idle Quality and Pressure Distribution tests are computer driven, and the engine's score on each of them is printed out automatically by the computer as it completes the tests. We don't know much about the Idle Quality test, other than a score of 1.3 or greater on this test indicates potential block problems. We know a bit more about the Pressure Distribution test. Here's a detailed description of the Pressure Distribution test.
The leakdown test is a manual test, and the tech who completes it must write the score for each cylinder on the test print-out by hand. Results can vary based on several factors - here is a detailed discussion from the E34 530i/540i mailing list about important leakdown testing variables - ones you might want to discuss w/the tech who is testing your car. If you have the test completed, be sure you retain a copy of all the test documents for your records, and verify that they have the leakdown numbers written in as well. Since the leakdown test is a manual test, it is susceptible to human error. If your results are too good to be true (less than 5% on any cylinder) you should pursue another test, or maybe go to another dealer. Cylinders in a new engine will generally have scores in the 5% to 8% range.
From a list member regarding leak down numbers:
"OK folks, here's the elaboration on my concerns for the numerical significance of the leakdown numbers. I happened across it on a Jag site: http://www.jag-lovers.org/books/xj-s/04-Engine.html. This is a _very_ informative article..."
How do I know BMW's M60 engine test accurately identifies cylinder wear? <Back to top>
There is concern whether BMW's M60 Engine test makes sense, e.g., do parts one and part two really identify engine wear effectively, etc. In fact, at least one member of our mailing list passed the first two tests and then requested the leakdown test (he offered to pay for it if he didn't fail). He failed the leakdown test on one cylinder and received a new block.
So the test may not be 100% effective (e.g., you could pass the first two phases, not receive the leakdown portion when the engine is in fact failing.) However, since BMW makes the rules, the only way to guaranteed a free leakdown test is through BMW's prescribed M60 Engine test sequence. As mentioned above, some dealers seem to be willing to do the leakdown anyway, with or without the engine failing the first two parts of the test. It never hurts to ask, and if your warranty is near it's end, you absolutely should.ensure you get the leakdown done before the warranty expires.
When am I allowed to have the M60 engine test - any requirements? <Back to top>
Owners are allowed the M60 Engine Test test free from any BMW dealer under the following conditions:
BMW Service Information Bulletin 11 11 95 (4305) states: quote, "A certain fluctuation in idle speed is a normal and inherent design characteristic of the M60 enigne as this engine is designed for maximum power output and optimal throttle response while still providing smooth running characteristics. The M60 engine test should be performed strictly on the above mentioned customer complaints of excessively uneven idle OR when it is evident that without this test the customer would lose confidence in his BMW. "
Basically, ". . . OR when it is evident that without this test the customer would lose confidence in his BMW." means that you can have the test if you are concerned about your car and want it tested - it's about that simple. Of course, if you show up on your dealer's doorstep every six months they will (justifiably) get pretty tired of you. There's really no reason to have the test done frequently. You certainly should have it done if you haven't yet, and again just before the end of your warranty period.
If you fail the test you should be offered a loaner or rental car while they are replacing the block, but that option has not been consistently offered to members of the 530i/540i list who have had their car's blocks replaced. Always ask for a loaner - tell the dealer that you would like to schedule the replacement so that he can ensure you will have a loaner or rental car available for you during the work.
Why all the hassle - if BMW reimburses for the work, why aren't dealers lining up to replace my block? <Back to top>
The main reason is probably that some dealers seem to like the block replacement work and some don't, probably depending in part on their experience w/block replacements. The more replacements a tech does, the faster he/she can do the job. The faster the job is done, the more profitable the work becomes to the dealer, since BMW pays for a fixed number of labor hours for warranty work. So, the more blocks a dealer has replaced, the more interested they may be in doing this kind of work (and doing all the tests regardless of the scores). So, asking the dealer's history with M60 block replacements may be a good idea - a larger number of replacements may be a good indicator of potential success, and at a minimum indicates that the dealer understands the issues with the M60.
Remember, BMW would prefer to minimize the number of free replacements, so they have set up requirements that dealers have to meet to get reimbursed for the work, and may audit the dealers.
So why don't I just call my dealer and ask him to do a leakdown test for free? <Back to top>
Unfortunately you can not usually call up a BMW dealer and demand a free leakdown test for your car. (Although, as mentioned above, in a few cases we've had list members who have gotten dealers to "cut to the chase" and perform the leakdown test either first, or guarantee they will do it regardless of the score on the other two tests.) You can demand a free M60 Engine test which might (depending on the condition of the engine) end up getting the leakdown test if you fail part one or two of the engine test. Remember, you generally only get to the free leakdown part if you fail part one or part two, or can get the dealer to agree do it for free as a part of the test regardless of our score on the first two.
We recommend owners request the free M60 Engine test and see what happens. If you don't pass part 1 or part 2 of that test you'll get the leak down test free. If you pass part one and part two you can then decide (have them call you!) if you want to pay for the leakdown test (e.g., roll the dice) and see if you fail it in spite of passing the other parts. So you could save the $$ for a leakdown test (ranges from $150 to $200) if you do the engine test and fail parts one/two and then pass the final (leakdown) part.
Are there any other things I should consider having done to my car when a new short block is installed? <Back to top>
While the new short block is being installed, there is preventative maintenance work you can have done on your car. Since the engine is out of the car and dissambled, you can replace some items (e.g., water pump) for the cost of the part - no labor charge. Here's a list of things that members have had checked/replaced during installations of new blocks.
Are there any BMW dealers you recommend, who seem to understand this issue? <Back to top>
There are a few that we can recommend based on the experiences of members of our mailing list. A recommendation does not mean that the dealer replaces every block that they test. It does mean that they seemed to be aware of the M60 engine issues, were aware of the M60 engine test, and treated our members with courtesy. Click here for list of those dealers.
What percentage of US cars have their blocks replaced? <Back to top>
We currently have no information on this, and as far as we know BMW has not released any statistics. We do know that some cars are going strong past 100K miles w/no problems, and others have had new blocks installed well under 50K miles. We recently heard of a 1995 540i with 154,000 miles on it that had a leakdown completed at the owners request - the engine "passed" with scores of 10% on each cylinder. Here's some data that shows the experiences of a cross-section of members of the E34 530i/540i Mailing List.
I'm considering purchasing a BMW with the M60 engine right now - any advice? <Back to top>
If you are in the process of purchasing a used BMW with the M60 V8 from a dealer, you could request an M60 engine test as a part of the sale. Some individuals have received a new block shortly after purchase. Not bad - essentially a brand new engine for free w/your "used" car. Read these stories about how a member of our mailing list and another owner got a new blocks with their "new" used E34's during the purchase process. Also see the stories below about owners who got new blocks after warranties had expired on cars they already owned.
And these cars can be fine w/the nikasil engine! Chad's experience is just one example:
"...I have a '94 530 with 178,000 miles, ...Manual trans. It idles smooth, lots of power, doesn't use a drop of oil and has the original Nikasil block. I bought it recently and am unaware of when or if the leakdown test has been done. The car spent the first 174,000 miles in the Dallas Texas area and now lives in the Minneapolis area. Judging by how the rest of the car looks & feels, it was babied and well taken care of, it honestly looks & drives like new. I looked at cars with 60k on them, in much worse shape. . . Chad"
We think you'll love the car!! Editorial note: If you are comparing the 530i and 540i, I happen to believe that the 530i provides a great balance between performance and price - the 530i has great handling, HP, and torque, and won't bend your wallet nearly as much as a 540i. The 540i is an even more powerful car (albeit a couple hundred pounds heavier) that is also very fun to drive. Pricing on both cars is very reasonable (especially compared to a new E39 528i or 540i) and they are the last of the E34 body style, a classic looking car that many find preferrable to the look of the new E39 528i and 540i.
What would it cost me if I paid for my block replacement out of warranty? <Back to top>
Worst case - if you got a BMW w/the M60 engine and the block went south after the warranty ended, your out of pocket cost for a new short block would be about $1,900 for the parts, and anywhere from about $2,500 to $3,000 in labor, depending on labor rates in your area. However - never assume that you have to pay for the new block, even if your warranty is expired!! It is always worth your while to talk to your dealer's service manager, regional service managers, and BMWNA customer support to press for at least partial coverage on this type of work. BMW has in some cases put in new blocks after warranties have expired - see the stories referenced in this FAQ.
Other "pay" options:
1. Bavarian Engine Exchange. No core chare, free shipping, 2 years unlimited mileage warranty, $8995.00 long block and all the instalation accessories, gaskets, plugs, water pump, filters. http://www.bavengine.com.
2. Korman (Kormanfastbmw.com) can sleeve the M60 block cylinders. The sleeving service from Korman is available as an option (albeit a fairly expensive one) if you need to replace a Nikasil block that is out of warranty. The generic email address is sales@kormanfastbmw.com. The sleeving is done as part of a complete rebuild. It costs about $1000 less than a factory long block (which means over 10K), and uses standard BMW pistons. Engine displacement is not altered. The sleeves have enough wall thickness that they can be rebored oversize during a future rebuild.
By the way - BMWNA warranty time for the replacement of the short block is under 22 hours.
What's the warranty on the new (alusil) short block? <Back to top>
The warranty on the new alusil short block is whatever is left of the original 6 year/100K mile warranty, and the standard 12 month/12,000 mile warranty on all replaced parts from your dealer. One of our members was recently told by his dealer the warranty was 12 months, with no mileage restriction.
Has anyone ever gotten a new block after their warranty expired? (Hint - the answer is YES!) <Back to top>
Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus. <g> Recently (late 2000) a member of the E34 530i/540i mailing list was able to get a new short block after her warranty had expired. Another 530i owner used the information on this site to get a block after warranty expired, though he had to pay $1,000 of the costs. Here are their very interesting stories, told in their own words.* Sometimes things do turn out right. These events seem to show that BMWNA can do the right thing. Good luck making your own magic if you are in this same situation.
Any other options? Can I do anything to slow (or speed?!) the affect of sulfur on my engine block? <Back to top>
There has been some speculation that the damage occurs mostly when the engine is cold. If this is true, short trips in cold climates could increase the possiblity of block damage, and reducing those types of trips could . . . oh heck. Do we know anything for sure? Really? Any evidence? Nope.
The best advice we've ever heard about this issue is to drive/enjoy your car (after all, they are a blast to drive), have the engine test completed, and have another test done just before your warranty expires. If your car is OK at 100K, it'll most likely still be fine at 200K and beyond. Stop obsessing! There are other things in life much more interesting and worthwhile to spend your time on. You know, really important things like wheel plus-sizing upgrades, and suspension options, etc. <g>
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